21: Eastern Centennials

WhenAugust 10, 2025
Distance47.2 mi
Time9h 39m
Elevation Gain5141 ft
Elevation Loss7113 ft
Avg Speed7.8 mph

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21: Eastern Centennials

The eastern half of the Centennials proved far more enjoyable than the western, and not only because the trail was far more rideable. The views from the eastern side epic: the Tetons, Mount Holmes in Yellowstone, the Taylor Hilgard, the Snowcrest range, etc.

The trail consists of almost entirely rideable grades, and is generally smoother and faster. It is far less overgrown. Instead of sheep, I heard pikas. The raptors are abundant. All of the downed trees had been recently cleared. The wildflowers are perhaps equal in number, but are more vibrant on this side.

Overall, today’s alpine riding was excellent, and the roads in to Island Park favorable. I’ve cleaned my bike, my clothes, and myself. I’m off to the hot tub!

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20: Centennials

WhenAugust 9, 2025
Distance68.3 mi
Time12h 30m
Elevation Gain7464 ft
Elevation Loss5791 ft
Avg Speed8.3 mph

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20: Centennials

A cold (35°F), early start got me in to Lima in plenty of time to get my resupply box this morning. I dawdled in Lima a bit, mostly soaking in warm sunshine.

The Centennials are far drier than the Beaverheads, with sagebrush predominating in the open spaces and creeks fewer and further between. The trail through the Centennials is old school—often climbing or plunging steeply. Most climbs are hike-a-bike and even a couple of the descents down the loose, volcanic soil had me off my bike. It’s been slow but steady going. Candidly, the Centennials are not the most inspiring range, though I’ve been enjoying the views of the Snake River Plain and Tetons to the south. Nailed my campsite tonight, up on a ridge with the Tetons perfectly framed in the opening of my tent.

Planning a short-ish day tomorrow into Island Park to wash my clothes and soak in a hotel hot tub.

Listening to: Mermaid Avenue (Vol. 1) by Billy Bragg and Wilco

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19: Hell for Lima

WhenAugust 8, 2025
Distance67.7 mi
Time13h 36m
Elevation Gain11795 ft
Elevation Loss12372 ft
Avg Speed6.7 mph

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19: Hell for Lima

Struggling a bit to forgive myself for not having brought a few spokes. My relative inexperience with bikepacking is on full display. Living and learning, I guess. I’m going to be mired in a full week of worry due to not having brought 6 grams worth of spokes. Ug!

Much of the riding today was highly pleasant single track.

At 10,200’, Elk Mountain today marks the high point of my route until I reach Colorado (I think!).

Elk Mountain is also where my duct tape rim tape job from yesterday’s spoke fiasco failed. I probably should have just put in my spare tube, but last time I tried riding *not* tubeless it was a disaster (ruining 3 tubes in the next 8 hours). This time I took the tire completely off, and applied a proper rim tape patch job. Astonishingly, I was able to get the tire back on and seated. If only I had brought real spokes instead of this string spoke kit…

Today was a bit of a slog. Yesterday was cut short by the spoke situation and weather, putting me 15 miles in the hole at the outset. I pushed through and made it to my intended destination for the night, well positioned for an easy two hours into Lima to pick up my resupply box in the morning. I’m ahead of schedule, but veering into Type 2/2.5 territory.

Listening to: Wilco’s complete studio discography

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18: 55 Spokes

WhenAugust 7, 2025
Distance45.5 mi
Time11h 5m
Elevation Gain8238 ft
Elevation Loss8396 ft
Avg Speed5.9 mph

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18: 55 Spokes

My plan for today was to get an early start and make some miles (in hopes of making it to Lima by Saturday morning to pick up my next resupply box).

Things were going according to plan (maybe better than planned on account of the trail having been recently cleared to deadfall) until I rode a bit too aggressively through a patch of sharp rocks, puncturing my rear tire (second puncture this trip—thank god for tubeless tires!) and … breaking a spoke in my front wheel for which, inexplicably, I didn’t have a spare—only a Kevlar string universal spike kit. Long story short: I successfully used my string spoke repair kit, feel stupid for not bringing any actual spokes (I could have actually fixed the broken spoke instead of merely applying a bandaid), and am moving along again toward a future proper repair.

Overall the trails today were far more ridable than I expected. I stopped off at a lake this morning with bountiful lupine and paintbrush. I spent much of the day on the crest of the Beaverheads with big views down into Montana on one side and Idaho on the other.

Today’s spoke fiasco set me back a couple of hours, and an evening thunderstorm (threatening snow) chased me off the trail to an early camp at Lemhi Pass. Fun fact: Lewis and Clark camped here on August 12, 1805. This was their highest elevation camp between St. Louis and the Pacific coast.

Listening to: “Napoleon: A Life” by Adam Zamoyski. (After finishing Ron Chernow’s Hamilton biography, I wanted something to give me an overview of the French Revolution and Napoleon’s arc.)

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17: A Traveler

WhenAugust 6, 2025
Distance39.0 mi
Time8h 38m
Elevation Gain5449 ft
Elevation Loss6890 ft
Avg Speed6.1 mph

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17: A Traveler

I once met a man who was 26 days into a solo winter raft trip through the Grand Canyon. He said that any such long journey unfolds in phases. The first week is all novelty: establishing patterns, routines, and mastering logistics. In the second phase, you are simply present. A traveler. Your life takes on the rhythm of the river. The third phase is the Zen phase: you integrate your journey with who you were, and who you will be.

17 days in, I’m beginning to feel a traveler. My life has taken on the steady rhythm of the trail. Wake. Eat. Pack. Pedal. Bask. Camp. Repeat.

There’s less lactic acid in my legs in the mornings, and fewer odd (see: alarming!) aches and pains. My cravings for town and civilization are abating, but for the need to recharge my electronics and the perpetual craving for cold beer.

After breaking camp I completed the last 500 vertical feet of climbing up into an alpine bowl. The riding today has been very much Alpine in character and, while challenging, absolutely blissful.

2.5 days after leaving Wisdom I pedaled this afternoon into Jackson, MT to pick up a resupply box. Jackson, as it happens, is about a 1.5 hour bike ride from Wisdom, if one took the highway rather than the high route. I’m recharging and enjoying a few cold beverages at the Bunkhouse Hotel before pedaling back to the CDT.

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